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Overspeed fault drops your throttle. Bad connection between current sensor and control board creates Vref (voltage reference I suppose) fault that requires controller reboot. Same goes for bad throttle pot (Throttle fault). I've had them all happen, heheh.
I issued current sensor problem by soldering the wires directly to control board and current sensor rather than using removable connectors. No Vref-faults since. When I had a resistive pot in potbox it used to "jump" out of range. Pot was worn and I could see that even when using multimeter to check resistance. RTD explorer showed it more clearly. Controller would quickly cut the throttle and required restart to get throttle back.
I attached two images to show how bad pot shows up in RTD explorer. First one shows bad spiking on raw throttle signal (brown line) near the area it is used the most. Second picture shows what happens if I floor the pedal few times before actual use. Spikes were smaller but still there. That resulted in jumpy starts and sometimes "throttle fault". Maybe my 90 000 amps/second slew rate (c-rr 90) also played some role there, but now when using hall effect throttle it doesn't matter that much. I get smooth starts and no throttle errors.
To sum it up: if possible, drive a bit with laptop connected to a controller and see what error message flashes if controller decides to cut throttle.
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