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Metro, I think it may apply to almost any starter motor. Basically you want to clean out the accumulated debris from wear of the brushes and commutator surface where the brushes contact the surface of the armature.
I used to watch the gent at the old fashioned parts store rebuild starters while I waited. They turned the armature on a lathe, relaced the brushes and bushings as required.
In thinking about the condition of the starter on my Ranger at 129k miles, my conclusion is since cars start so quickly with modern fuel delivery systems that the actual cranking time of the starter is significantly reduced. Even more important is the actual cranking duration is much lower and not sustained where heat becomes an issue and accelerates wear. Combined with better tolerances with more precise production methods and standards and you have my starter which looked like it was only a couple of years old.
The grunge was not as bad as I had anticipated and it cleaned easily with a brush and compressed air (downwind). Avoid excessive applications of lubricant and use a synthetic high temp grease. You don't want to have the grease get on the armature.
My symptoms were solenoid engagement but no motor rotation. It took 4 tries to get it to crank the last several times before the repair.
Before you go ripping the starter out always check the battery connections and gound connections before you go into the starter since a bad ground or loose-corroded battery terminal can also give you a no crank symptom. Typically that does not give you the distinctive noise of the solenoid moving the starter gear to engage the flywheel which is what mine was doing.
So far it has worked, first try every time, and the sound is just like a new one.
regards
Mech
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