Originally Posted by jtgh
add to bad list
driving with engine in open loop mode. (due to EFI faults or near WOT) "no tuned up"
not tuned means , ignoring service schedules. (and the p0300s)
CEL (MIL) on , driving?
driving with the ebrake set
driving with the mother-inlaw in car @350lbs and distracting ....
"obummer, pump up dem tires folks."
physics works even more simple.
#1
Recapture the heat losses. from the engine and braking. (and stropped)
#2
Reduction of car weight and rolling resistance and air flow resistance.
A more efficient engine. (and braking loss recovery systems)
, Stoich is where it's at, if you fail to keep it there , your engine will suck too much fuel.
if your driving habits , drop closed loop all the time, bingo. get a gauge and watch it.
first off, the best way to achieve economy is, (besides parking the keys) is to
recover the vast heat losses of the OTTO cycle engine .
Either store this energy, or use it direct, from the Exhaust and from the engine cooling radiator.
Turn off the engine, at stops signals.
Drive in the sweet spot using an MPG gauge. mine even works UP HILL.
If you don't like logging trucks passing you, ,then, consider that. Safety trumps MPG, every time.
I find gas cheap, it's about 10 times the cost of 1970 , just like, ah, everything else.
50MPG?
"there are now even domestics getting in the 50mpg range now"
what's the delta on the RANGE. +-10mpg?
why not name this car, is in ICE? or a Hybrid.?
i this the car?
I wonder if the 47mpg , is reduced for the amortized long term costs of expensive maintenance and battery swaps. Id bet not. (no free lunch)
Do the math on a cheap 30mpg Gas car, with a hybrid. Cost of owner ship.
Cost of ownership per mile , and use 10 years as how long you own it.
my 96 mx5 got 28mpg at 70mph, every day and when i sold it 5 years later , i made cash.
Bet you can't make cash with old funky batteries. in a hybrid. in 10 years. no way.
Ever try to work on one? I can repair all my cars, can you?
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