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On my engine the accessories are driven by their own belt. So I can remove just the power steering belt and not worry about effecting or modifying the other systems. The cable I used was 2 gauge welding cable, which can handle my Honda's starting amps. For 300A I would have used 0 gauge welding cable. Yes it's a pretty big wire, but the safety component is the inline fuse mounted just next to the battery. If anything were to short out on the long cable run that fuse would protect the car from a fire.
I'm willing to bet that during normal operation your car uses more than 35 amps. Especially at night with the headlights on. I could be wrong though, as I have not measured my own current draw. But it does pose a problem if you plan on using the existing 35 amp outlet. Your DC-DC converter has to provide the current to run the car systems, but also a little more to make sure the starting battery stays topped off.
It is true that how much you discharge the battery is related to how many cycles it can perform and how long it lasts. Even deep cycle batteries, which are designed to be deeply discharged, will last longer if you discharge down to 50% capacity rather than down to 20% capacity. That is one of my concerns as well. My deep cycle battery may not even last 2 years if I go through 300+ charging cycles a year. So I may end up spending 2-3 times more on batteries than I would without deleting the alternator.
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