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Old 10-15-2013, 08:46 PM   #49 (permalink)
BLSTIC
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 253

Delivery 'Boy - '86 Suzuki Mighty Boy
90 day: 37.15 mpg (US)

SkipSwift - '13 Suzuki Swift GL
90 day: 35.44 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman600 View Post
In theory all you would need to do is create a small (metered) vacuum leak. Your throttle would be more closed at the same load to maintain the same MAF/o2 sensor readings. Not sure what the trans goes by as far as downshift logic goes, but if it goes by throttle plate angle, that would do it. If it goes by algorithms based off multiple sensor readings, it would't work.
That wouldn't work, as someone stated previously. It would give a high idle and stuff... What you want is a throttle that flows more air at low angles than normal, but still closes. There are two options:

a: Bigger throttle body. Expensive and/or hard, idle mechanisms may be changed. More air per degree of opening, higher max flow.

b: modify the one you have. You can carve a channel around where the throttle sits at (say) 15%. If you carve it wide enough and smooth enough, the effective throttle opening will be larger from roughly 8-20%. With the right shape you could probably increase low angle flow by 30%. More air per degree of opening at light loads. More DIY, modifies exactly what you want. No shiny bits or potential horsepower gain though.

Alternatively if your car is older and has a single TPS (most anything with a cable) you can use a voltage interceptor kit (jaycar electronics do a pretty trick one) to make the computer think that the throttle is less open than it is, but still reads correct at idle and full throttle. That way you can haul along at 2/3rds throttle and the computer will keep you in closed loop and change up at half redline...
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