Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic
Without gauges, DWL is almost impossible to do well. The gage will show you when you have the engine in the best efficiency range for load, usually 70-80%. Using the shiftronic, I think you can keep the auto transport from shifting gears until you want to at about 2200 or 2500 rpms or so, which will complete the technical needs of the DWL technique. The ultra gage is cheaper than the scangauge, and it'll pay for itself in a few tanks. It really is a great techer.
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When I leave the car in "D" the car will shift around 22-2300RPMs on its own, with careful driving. Only problem then would be hills/mountains, where the car needs to be at about 3k RPMs to stay out of boost (for steeper inclines). If I manually shift it and not let it get above 2-3k, the car will slow down well below the speed limit, which isn't what I want it to do. Also forgot to mention that the car has an ECO mode that I can manually turn on/off, which defines the gas pedals responsiveness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by euromodder
A 2011 car will likely have an mpg indicator.
DWL according to the (cant post urls yet) #56 is driving to a constant fuel consumption (target driving) , not to constant engine load .
To get there, ever so slightly release the throttle until you get to the desired MPG.
When not using CC, something I do to keep the optimum throttle position (which is pretty hard to pinpoint on my car) is to engage CC on an incline that'd reduce the already slow speed too much, or for too long a distance.
While engaging CC, I do keep my foot exactly where it was - which doesn't bother the CC as it adds more gas.
Then as I'm about to crest the incline, I disengage CC again, and due to the throttle setting, fly down the descent picking up some speed that'll slowly blow off again when on level ground.
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I usually put CC on for highway driving, but if I'm not traveling at a fast enough speed for the right grade hill, the car will downshift and add boost...kind of a funny feeling when it does that too...because if I drop 1-2mph below set speed, the car will jerk under boost and set my speed over by a few mph, then slow back down...but it pulls so hard, and as I mentioned above, I'm trying to stay out of boost.