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Old 03-23-2014, 08:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
Not Doug
Xist's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Show Low, AZ
Posts: 10,023

Chorizo - '00 Honda Civic HX, baby! :D
90 day: 35.35 mpg (US)

Mid-Life Crisis Fighter - '99 Honda Accord LX
90 day: 32.86 mpg (US)
Thanks: 6,668
Thanked 1,911 Times in 1,453 Posts
Yes, Xistday is Xist's birthday. I always find it strange how much attention-seeking behavior I have. You would think that I would have cut back before turning thirty-five!

I realized that if I used an over-sized plug or re-tapped a larger one, if my pan is as depicted in the first post here, there might not be any bung left, just half a thread in the sidewall.

Is the EX pan the same as the HX? I wasted too much time trying to figure out that one, but when I finally pulled up and realized that I needed to search for "pan, oil" and not "oil pan," it showed 11200-P2J for the EX and HX, but 11200-P2E for the DX. A new steel pan is $114.32, but aluminum costs $254.37. Of course, nobody is telling me to purchase a new one.

There is an HX pan in Tucson (116 miles) for $75 and two EX pans in Mesa (6.1 miles) for $85. I would need to get 63.7 MPG and not value my time to break even driving to Tucson. So, I can purchase one for approximately $80 and drive approximately 61 miles each way for what should be a good pan, and then install a Fumoto Valve.

Or I could not plan on driving Chorizo, remove the pan, have someone weld on a nut, and then install the valve, which I would not necessarily need at that point.

What would I do with my old pan? If I can just weld a nut, it should be fine afterward.

When I bought the car, I was told that I had a leak in the rear-main seal. Would there be any point in fixing that at the same time?

Last edited by Xist; 09-05-2014 at 07:05 PM.. Reason: spelling
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