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Checking Toe
The tire needs to be setting on level ground with the full weight of the car on all tires (suspension loaded). A tape ruler is all that is needed. Make sure the steering is pointed straight ahead. Hook one end of the tape in a tire groove on the front side of the tire and record the distance to the corresponding groove on the other tire, then repeat for the backside. The difference being the amount of toe. Another way (better) is to take two strings and tie either sinkers or large nuts to each end and drape the string with weights over the tire in a tire groove. Adjust the length of the string so that the weights are a inch or two above the ground front and back. Do the same for the other tire. Measure the distance between the front strings, then rear strings of the tires and record. This is better because the full diameter of the tire(distance between front and rear of the tire) will be accounted for. When using the first method, just the lower (smaller) radius is available to be measured because of the chassis being in the way. The first method however will tell you quickly whether or not you have a problem, just not as accurate. If it is a front wheel drive car you will also need to check rear wheel toe also . Just as important though is to check "thrust". Thrust is the difference between front and rear wheel (axle) alignment. Front and rear should be parallel. 0 degrees thrust. It is however more difficult to check by oneself.
Most shops charge around $70 for a 4 wheel alignment (
laser). A bargain, considering the cost of fuel and tires these days as improper wheel alignment can cost you plenty. They can also tell if you have bigger problems, like worn out components.
I just had mine done and told them to set it up as,
Front - 0 degrees toe
Rear - 0 degrees toe
Thrust - 0 degrees
Caster and camber were within factory specs.
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