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NoD~ · 05-19-2014, 03:02 PM

Yes, the AFTER way is the best way to do the line loop. The 2nd best is to loop at the rotary valve -to- power steering pump.

Yes to the picture of the two lines. Those lines currently go from the rack housing -to- the rotary valve.

I think a little explanation on how the power steering works is what will make clear the way for best performance here...

The power steering pump is pushing fluid into the "in" on the rotary valve. When you aren't steering, this isn't really doing anything. Once you start to turn your wheel in one direction or another, the rotary valve opens up one of the two lines and it puts pressure on that line. The fluid forces the piston in the rack housing over, making the steering assisted and much easier. The other side of the piston's chamber is full of fluid and has to go somewhere, so it goes out the line, then to the rotary valve, which directs it to the "out". Then, it goes back to the PS pump. Big loop like that.

So, with that said, why loop where?

Looping at the pinion side, at the rotary valve, is mostly about the fluid. You won't be able to drain as much fluid out, making it likely that when you turn the wheel, you are still going to be pushing some fluid. Even a little can make for resistance. It will be forced through from the rack housing to the rotary valve, loop around, and back in the other side of the rack housing.

Looping at the rack side, you can drain a lot more fluid and bypass the rotary valve, causing lowered resistance. You'll still want to loop or seal up at the rotary valve; anything you open up needs enclosed. Leave no lines open... you don't really want debris, dirt, whatever going in there and causing problems later.

When you pull the rack out of the housing and remove the piston, you completely remove pushing ANYTHING around in there. No resistance from the piston itself, either! Then, you can clean up and grease everything properly for smooth operation.

So there you have it. Hopefully this is pretty clear on how all this works (and lets hope I fully understand it myself! lol).

IF you have the rack out, spend a day cautiously taking it apart and removing the piston. It's well worth it in the end. You might do some googling to find out how to convert it properly... I had to cut/chisel the piston off the rack to remove it!

05-19-2014, 03:02 PM	#41 (permalink)
NoD~ Master EcoModder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: USA Posts: 469 Frogger - '00 Honda Insight Gas Only (unHybrid) 90 day: 68.51 mpg (US) Thanks: 13 Thanked 247 Times in 133 Posts	Yes, the AFTER way is the best way to do the line loop. The 2nd best is to loop at the rotary valve -to- power steering pump. Yes to the picture of the two lines. Those lines currently go from the rack housing -to- the rotary valve. I think a little explanation on how the power steering works is what will make clear the way for best performance here... The power steering pump is pushing fluid into the "in" on the rotary valve. When you aren't steering, this isn't really doing anything. Once you start to turn your wheel in one direction or another, the rotary valve opens up one of the two lines and it puts pressure on that line. The fluid forces the piston in the rack housing over, making the steering assisted and much easier. The other side of the piston's chamber is full of fluid and has to go somewhere, so it goes out the line, then to the rotary valve, which directs it to the "out". Then, it goes back to the PS pump. Big loop like that. So, with that said, why loop where? Looping at the pinion side, at the rotary valve, is mostly about the fluid. You won't be able to drain as much fluid out, making it likely that when you turn the wheel, you are still going to be pushing some fluid. Even a little can make for resistance. It will be forced through from the rack housing to the rotary valve, loop around, and back in the other side of the rack housing. Looping at the rack side, you can drain a lot more fluid and bypass the rotary valve, causing lowered resistance. You'll still want to loop or seal up at the rotary valve; anything you open up needs enclosed. Leave no lines open... you don't really want debris, dirt, whatever going in there and causing problems later. When you pull the rack out of the housing and remove the piston, you completely remove pushing ANYTHING around in there. No resistance from the piston itself, either! Then, you can clean up and grease everything properly for smooth operation. So there you have it. Hopefully this is pretty clear on how all this works (and lets hope I fully understand it myself! lol). IF you have the rack out, spend a day cautiously taking it apart and removing the piston. It's well worth it in the end. You might do some googling to find out how to convert it properly... I had to cut/chisel the piston off the rack to remove it!