The holes are sealed with a foam pak, the same stuff we use to seal holes around doors and windows only in a larger, 2 component package.
First I used a product called "Chassis Saver" it is the best stuff I have found to stop and convert the rust since the EPA regs ruined "Extend". Chassis saver is not as good as the original Extend but is the best thing I can find here in NY and it is waaayyy better than the Extend they sell now.
I did a considerable amount of prep to uncover all the hidden rust bubbles... Then I did a few coats of the chassis saver, multiple thin coats until no more rust comes through is the best procedure. Follow the instructions meticulously and it works great. The black spots on the body are the spots I applied chassis saver. The rust marks are rust stains on the paint.
I put in a couple temperary stops to keep the foam from going where I did not want it to go and filled the associated cavity and surrounding spaces with foam.
I then trimmed the foam to shape, I did a small fiberglass layup over the foam for strength, followed with a little bondo filler for the worst diviots. Spray can of self etching primer and generic car store paint.
As long as you are careful to find and convert all the rust before encapsulation this sort of repair has lasted me many years in the past. All subsequent rust that appears must be addressed quickly to maintain the itegrity of the body of the vehicle.
If we do that from the start then we get many more years out of our cars here in NY salt counrty.
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1991 Civic LX
Operator software optimized for efficiency
Current modifications:
Vacuum gauge
Deleted rear mud flaps
Planned modifications:
Manual torque converter lock up
Full gauges (only has factory temp gauge)
MpGuino
Large front air dam (covering front grill)
Skirts
Rear Wheel enclosure
Partial rear pan
Kammback
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