Quote:
Originally Posted by Vman455
I don't buy the whole "an airdam only needs to go as low as the lowest component on the underbody," when, in every Bonneville class that allows an airdam, you'll see cars with that thing extended all the way to the ground--because the benefit comes not from "shielding" something sticking into the airflow, but from disallowing as much air to get under the car in the first place, instead sending it around the streamlined upper body (which is why even cars like the hydrogen Fusion tout a benefit from a smooth underbody and a very low airdam). So, I think if you're going to go with an airdam, make it as low as practically possible. The Volt's airdam used to be much lower, in fact, until enough owners complained of scraping that GM raised it.
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*In Feysal Ahmed's masters thesis research on a RAM pickup he recommends the airdam go no lower than existing components.
*In a racing application the airdam can go to 3" of ground clearance,picking up less than 1% drag reduction,and less than 1/2% mpg.(1974 CAR and DRIVER 'Crisis Fighter Pinto').
*bondo tried a lower dam,then had to reverse himself after losing fuel economy.
*With the VW do Brasil 1600 X,the airdam creates a drag increase when it's length extends beyond 80mm .
*On VW's Volkswagen 1600 notchback wind tunnel calibration car,attachment of a front airdam created a 11.7% drag increase.
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Factoring SAE approach angle guidelines,without vigilant driving techniques,the low airdam is gonna end up on someone's driveway ramp,just like Trans Am Firebirds,Corvettes,and New Beetles.
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*Active airdams (front and rear) would be a solution for some,although best when combined with active suspension.
*With $200,000 and the A-2 tunnel you could figure it all out.