Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard
Split tailgate.
Each side could swing open into a storage locker, with depth equal to half the tailgate width and a width equal to the length of the boattail.
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That was my original thought too! I would rather the design not utilize my receiver, for a multitude of reasons. The first being, that this will hold my spare tire so I see no need for this to be removable once it is built.
Could split the weight between two hinges, allowing for a stronger structure and a heavier payload for storage of plus size tire and equipment. Would also allow for a true key lock on the split to gain access to the inside of the hatch rather than trying to reach between boat tail in truck to release the arm. BUT, my problem was I didn't know if the seam would create bad flow? Or worse yet, how would I seal it to prevent air flow into the structure and causing a "parachute" effect? It increases the number of variables, and would necessitate a more accurate design of both the structure and the shell. Of course, that's not
that big of a deal. I've only started thinking about his in a serious fashion lately, it's probably far simpler than my first impression of it.
Example of load capabilities on split swing bumpers, they're used a lot on trail rigs and overland vehicles:
And the latching mechanism that could be extended via metal subframe to the rear of the boat tail (this could be hidden behind a locked hatch). I would probably secure one side to the bumper, an then lock the opposite to it... Like you do with double door in a house:
As far as mounting to a factory bumper goes, it's a bad idea... Very few are meant to handle the weight and even fewer are designed in a manner that you can weld the hinge to it. But you can weld a subframe that hides behind the stock bumper. Here is an example of one, I found it here
Gray Goose Build Thread - JeepForum.com , but pretty much no information other than to show the following pics. I was kind of bummed there weren't more pics or a proper write up on it
He unbolted the factory hitch, and welded a cross beam that goes in the bumper and two runner welded to the arms which bolt to the frame. Pretty clean/simple once you determine correct placement.
his simple description:
"It's an A to Z hinge (
off road fab company), 3/4" bolt with a "t" welded to it to latch the carrier"
And the amazing "factory" look he was able to achieve with this design (even color matched the swing away arm):
I would imagine this wouldn't be cheap... But cost would probably be far cheaper when comparing what you get. The hinges are $52, add $25 for a larger HD version. So on a split version, you have $100 to $150 in the hinges (
Tire Carrier Swingout Heavy Duty Hinge Kit) . Latches can be purchased in various sizes and costs, and metal costs would be determined by type and source. But considering the high cost of thule slide aways, and hitch mount versions, I think it would be worth it. Plus it would allow peace of mind knowing it can handle ANYTHING you would build onto it. It might be overkill for some or even most of you guys, but I spend a lot of time driving forest service roads in the mountain... Two weekends ago I spent a few hours trying to pull a 150' downed tree out of the roadway
And I have a plus size spare that won't fit under the truck anymore, got's to have somewhere for it to go. I don't like having it inside, since it becomes an unsecured mass in the case of an accident... "Death by spare" doesn't appeal to me
As soon as I can get a decent photo of my truck, I'll start drawing/designing the tail structure to mount on my contraption. I really wanna make this happen, just a matter of time and resources haha
~C