View Single Post
Old 09-02-2014, 08:56 AM   #24 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
Sven7's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Warren, MI
Posts: 2,456

Boo Radley - '65 Ford F100
90 day: 13.28 mpg (US)
Thanks: 782
Thanked 665 Times in 408 Posts
Originally Posted by Grant-53 View Post
The aero drag on an non faired recumbent may be the same as that of a racing tuck upright.
Yes, and who would want to go to work in a racing tuck every day?

Originally Posted by vskid3 View Post
Are you sure you'll be able to double your average speed? Even on my ebike with a 28MPH top speed, I only average about 21 or 22MPH with stops included.
I don't know. I assume you're riding on the road? There are only three stop lights and three stop signs on my way to work (and I usually hit one on the walk sign), so even if I'm on the street it shouldn't be bad...

Originally Posted by renault_megane_dci View Post
Nice project.

What stopped me from further investigation on DIY recumbent is the suspension.
Where I drive, I need to go up and down passageways like 3 inches high and the position provided by a recumbent won't allow driver's easing it out ...

Wouldn't you have the same issue ?
Thanks! I don't know what you mean by passageways. We do have some sizeable bumps here though, and that's why I chose wide steel rims with fat (for lowracer standards) tires and hub brakes.

Originally Posted by arcosine View Post
Can you ride at 45mph with one hand?.
No, because I don't have a recumbent yet...

Originally Posted by order99 View Post
Just wondering-from the schematics above it looks like this is going to be a FWD recumbent-and most recumbents with mismatched wheels usually have RWD ging to the large wheel for better top-end speed.

Given the FWD nature of the plan above, why not use a larger fork-wheel diameter and a smaller rear wheel, or two even wheels for a slight rise in height (less Aero, but better traffic visability and balance overall)? any changes to the geometry resulting can always readjusted back with a few small frame bends to correct...
If the front wheel were bigger I would have trouble getting my short legs around it. Trust me, i wanted to do a 406/406 or even 406/559 but it just wasn't going to work. The rear wheel can't be too tall either because I want to be able to carry a small bag on top of the cargo rack without it poking too far above my head into the windstream. Hopefully most things will fit in slim panniers in the seat's slipstream.

So, I am going with the huge chainring to the smallest cog I could fit. If the chainring ends up being too small (and even if it doesn't), I may end up getting a new one machined out of plate aluminum with some old school cutouts like this.
He gave me a dollar. A blood-soaked dollar.
I cannot get the spot out but it's okay; It still works in the store
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Sven7 For This Useful Post:
aerohead (10-04-2014)