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If you do the t-case swap put manual locking hubs on the front, to keep the drive line from spinning all of the time.
Cooling: Keep in mind air in---> air out, plan a path for the air to go after it has gone through the radiator. With proper venting you can increase cooling even when you decrease air into the radiator with grill blocks. I vented the hood of my CJ and saw a 10F decrease in engine temps. With an automatic you might seriously consider an aftermarket cooler, I have seen many rigs overheat only because they were using the stock radiator based transmission cooler. The front skid/bash plate you posted will help to provide a low pressure area to suck the hot engine air down as long as there is a place for it to flow from the radiator.
Tires: I have seen many HT tires crack under prolonged abuse from rocky roads, mild AT's are probably your best bet. Though I have seen even HT's go rock crawling and perform well, just not so sure how long they would hold up to it.
Air: Get a good (not walmart) quality air compressor that connects to the battery, air down to 20-30 PSI when on the trails then air back up to road pressure when you are done. The ride will be much smother, and it will cause less erosion to the trail surface.
Underneath: tuck everything up as high as practical/needed, it will help with the break over, keep them from getting hit by the random rock, and get them out of the airflow more. Well placed tubing can provide excellent protection while minimizing weight gain and you can put a lighter skid/belly pan in between the tubes. (depending on how hard you wheel) A compromise on the full belly pan/skid plate is to do it sectional with the front curved up to divert air and to help not catch on obstacles.
Edit: the Vast majority of my being stuck is my center skid plate getting hung up because it protects the transfer case that hangs down way lower than it should.
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