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Old 09-17-2014, 10:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
chillsworld
I got ideas
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Georgia, United States
Posts: 115

Beast - '97 Mercury Mountaineer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGrimMechanic View Post
Newer Fords (like my '97) will require the connector that's on top of the EGR valve have a few resistors spliced in to 'trick' the ECM into thinking the EGR is still in place. Otherwise, you can leave the EGR valve on and the connector plugged in and just block off the tube. On my F350, a quarter fits nicely inside the nut that holds the exhaust tube to the EGR valve and the exhaust manifold. Just removed the tube and filled the open holes inside the tube-nut with a quarter and put the nut back on the exhaust manifold and EGR valve.

On your Mountaineer what P code is showing up?
Mines a 97, and the code is P0401 (insufficient EGR flow). It's got 288k miles on it, and I think its a safe bet that it's clogged with carbon build up... Haven't had time to really look into it yet. If that's the case I know I will see an increase in FE when I clean it out, do you feel that the increase from deletion is better? I've read a lot of back and forth on this subject... Obviously you have the added benefit from deleting the smog pump, decrease in parasitic losses. And you played with your timing, which I'm assuming also aided in FE? The more I read about it, the more confused I get hahaha

Quote:
The Air Injection Pump can be deleted several ways. On my F350, I had to physically remove the pump because a shorter belt wouldn't fit without removing the pump. But removing the pump would change how the belt was routed and the tensioner would no longer work. This required a few other changes. First, I had to use an alternator bracket for a 302. The 302 bracket relocated the belt tensioner to the correct location. Then I had to swap out the alternator for one used on a 460 (so it was clocked correctly). And I still had to make a small bracket to secure the top of the alternator. An easier way is to just stuff short pieces of wood dowel into the rubber hoses that go the exhaust manifolds. Can't say off the top of my head what you would need to do to remove it on your 302. If your accessory drive on your 302 powered Mountaineer is the same as 302 powered Mustangs, there are ready made kits to delete the air pump.
From what I understand, the 5.0 stang kit doesn't work without fabrication due to mounting points... But that was just a quick search on the explorer forum, didn't have time to read a whole lot about it last night. I'll dig deeper today.

BTW, you're getting the same mpg as I am in a truck that's only 30 less hp and 1500lbs lighter

~C
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I'm really beginning to like eco-humor
Quote:
Originally Posted by aerohead
PS you could add hamsters inside for a 'bio-hybrid' drive.
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