|
How a pro did it.
1- If you get a tough nut or bolt use a 6 point socket first. 12 points strip them easily 6 point and the right socket and it seldom happens. Usually you just snap the head off, either nut or bolt.
2- If it starts to strip (the head), STOP, see if you have a crap socket that you candrive on the nut-bolt and get it loose. Me personally, I'd heat it up then squirt some oil areound the mating surface. Sometimes it helps to actually tighten it dow, just afewdegrees to break the rust bond with dissimilar metals.
3-This tool will simply NOT work or a significant number of nuts-bolts. It's too big to fit in many places. No way in heaven I would have been able to get it on the t-stat bolts on the Sentra and I can think of numerous other places.
4-Take and angle grinder and cut the nut, preferrable lengthwise, stick a chisel in the cut and rap it with a hammer, but not enough to damage the threads.
5-Phillips head countersunk, it won't touch. Most important is have a bit that fits BEFORE you ever try to break it loose, like engine cases and side covers on 40 year old motorcycle engines. If you can not break it loose add some leverage. If it slips then more penetrating oil, and rap it with a hammer and a flat faced punch. You may have to drive the bit in after peening with hammer and punch. After that you"re in trouble or need an impact driver (always a great tool seldom used- not that bad rust here)
Thats thousands of fastener removal procedures condensed into a fairly simple post.
Didn't cost you squat and my success record was close to perfect. But it never hurts to sit there and think over your options. Exhaust bolts that are frozen piles of rust, cut them off with an angle grinder and get new hardware.
I'm looking for Frank Lee, frankly.
regards
mech
|