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Old 10-02-2014, 12:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
pgfpro
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I'm with Mech and the others on this one. This is my expertise. Sad to say lol I'm a certified PPG, BASF, Dupont now Axalta, and Chem Spec painter. I have been painting cars since the mid 80's. Part of my job description now is to figure out paint problems. Yeah its very boring. lol

Anyway the pic shows crazing or what we used to call "Lacquer check". Its cracking the clear-coat and base-coat and primer by the looks of it. Usually it's caused by not enough UV protection. You living in Arizona makes it even harder on the finishes.

The only way to fix it in this case is to strip it all the way done to bare metal and work your way up with a epoxy or etch primer and then a two part Urethane primer then a base coat clear coat system or single stage Urethane color if its a non-metallic color.

If you give me the paint code I can give a estimate of paint cost tomorrow when I get back to work. In fact we have stores in your area
"KC Auto Paint and supplies". I'm the store manager of KC Auto here in Paint Coeur d' alene. But just a warning its not going to be cheap. The cost of refinish paint has gone up on the weighted average of 6.0% every year for the last 10 years. So usually you can have the job done for around the same amount of money including labor then the cost of the paint.

But to answer your question you defiantly sanded through the paint but the paint was already a bad.

Also as Mech suggested you should be doing this in a well ventilated area. I prefer a paint booth. The primers and clear coats contain Isocynate and its very harmful to the body. A 3M part# 7193 respirator will run you around $24.00 alone. You should also have iso eye protection and a iso body shoot suit to keep it from contacting your skin.

If you have any another question feel free to ask.

Russell
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