All of my MGR's have around 100k miles on them. I have no idea how they hold up; perhaps looking into maintenance issues with Highlander Hybrids would give a clue.
I do know the motor is rated for, and can spin faster than 10k rpm. Some good info on that is from the Oakridge National labs tests - which run them faster than 10k rpm and have additional investigations into their construction. Also there's a paper by the Lead engineer who designed them, with performance graphs that exceed 10k rpm.
I've been thinking about a new case, but mostly from the perspective of packaging the motors in a dual motor/gearbox setup with two independant outputs. IMHO, elliminating the differential and it's drive gear could improve efficiency by at least that gear. Also, it would allow an electronic differential - with all the traction advantages involved.
I could build that - I've got the experience with the design work & CNC work involved. I'm just a bit short on funds - I'd rather put them into getting the EV running in the first place.
I did post a thing about my opinion on rewinding these previously...
OH - YEA! Notice the first pick in that string of picks about the MGR. On the resolver side, there's a big threaded hole that is perfectly concentric with the motor bearing. It may be possible to drive an oil pump AND connect it using this threaded hole. It may be possible to drive an oil pump with a friction fit shaft that fits into the motor's hollow shaft. The main problem that worries me - can an oil pump happily spin at 10k rpm??
Here's an example - you can get them cheaper, this is just a good pick:
Billet High Volume Oil Pump for Harley Twin Cam 88 | eBay
Take care,
E*clipse
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyruscosmo
Hey e*clipse... I found a few of those drive units for sale again. Do you have any idea what the mileage was on the units that you have? The units I found have over 100k on um and I wanted to get an idea how well they wear over time?
Do you know what the max RPM is on the main rotor, I think I read somewhere that it is something like Ten Thousand RPM? Can you confirm....
From what I see in the pictures that resolver/rotor assembly would be a snap to make a new case for with the addition of an oil pump for cooling. Then use the first gear planatary set from a C4 or use an overdrive unit driven backwards so you get the reduction then direct. Then mount the whole thing to a transmission input. 
My thoughts are that it would be easier for most DIYer's to install something that bolts to the existing transmission bell housing, rather than modify the entire rear suspension.
What are your thoughts on rewinding the stator for a lower voltage?
Cyruscosmo |