Hey e*clips
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All of my MGR's have around 100k miles on them. I have no idea how they hold up; perhaps looking into maintenance issues with Highlander Hybrids would give a clue.
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I was thinking more along the lines of you having one in pieces already. What do the gears and bearings look like? And how much metallic crud did you find inside the case when you opened it up? if it has held up for over 100K and still looks good inside then I am happy with that. Unless that thing has a one way clutch I am not seeing that rotor has been driven through the gears for over 100K.
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OH - YEA! Notice the first pick in that string of picks about the MGR. On the resolver side, there's a big threaded hole that is perfectly concentric with the motor bearing. It may be possible to drive an oil pump AND connect it using this threaded hole. It may be possible to drive an oil pump with a friction fit shaft that fits into the motor's hollow shaft.
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Yes... I was wondering about that bolt head and fat washer that can be seen on the outside of the case in that position. Do they rotate with the rotor shaft? If so then replace that fat washer with a toothed belt sheave and there is your oil pump drive. Plumbing is as easy as tig welding on a couple fittings for the oil ports. If you are going to use a positive displacement pump then don't forget a pressure relief valve and you may as well mount an oil filter and cooler.
I noticed in a few pictures that I found that the oil in those gear boxes looked like transmission fluid? Is it that thin? If so a battery powered pump would work and you would only need a couple places to put case fittings. If don't have a tig welder you could use hydraulic through bulkhead fittings with O rings like this.
JIC/AN Bulkhead Straight-SS-2700| Stainless Steel Fittings .com| Online Fittings Store
Damn... someone bought the drive unit I was looking at and the shipping will cost almost as much as the two I see on e-bay.
Cyruscosmo