About the oil, and oil quality - All three of mine had the oil drained before I got them. I think it's a shipping requirement. All three had something that looked like ATF in them. The one I took apart was pretty clean. When I completely wiped it out with a white paper towel, I found very little in the form of metal powder, etc. I'm trying hard to make sure the rotor doesn't attract metal filings, etc while it sits around my shop. The magnets are very strong and it seems stuff comes from everywhere to stick.
I do all the maintenance on my vehicles, and I can honestly say that the MGR was WAY cleaner than the oil changes from my Honda Insight - both the engine and the CVT. The diesel TDI in my Toyota pickup is REALLY dirty. I rebuilt the R151F transmission on my Toyota truck, and did an early oil change (about 20k miles) and would say that the oil in the MGR was about as clean.
I am seriously considering the super-polishing process that Freebeard mentioned for both longevity and increased efficiency.
For some reason there are 3 or 4 possibilites for oil inlets/outlets. One could easily pull oil out of the drain with some "T" for a drain. There is another tapped hole near the breather on top which would work as an oil inlet, regardless of motor direction.
That bolt you see on the outside is static. I have no idea how it's supposed to work as a vibration dampener - which is its stated job. So, replacing it with some pump drive may be slightly risky from that perspective. Again, I would want to be very sure the pump could handle the motor rpm before trying it.
Also - thanks for the oil pump link. That website has a lot of good info, with some good reality experience info mixed in. If we want to do our own pump or use a pump from another application, there is some good info about what may work.
- E*clipse
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyruscosmo
Hey e*clips
I was thinking more along the lines of you having one in pieces already. What do the gears and bearings look like? And how much metallic crud did you find inside the case when you opened it up? if it has held up for over 100K and still looks good inside then I am happy with that. Unless that thing has a one way clutch I am not seeing that rotor has been driven through the gears for over 100K. 
Yes... I was wondering about that bolt head and fat washer that can be seen on the outside of the case in that position. Do they rotate with the rotor shaft? If so then replace that fat washer with a toothed belt sheave and there is your oil pump drive. Plumbing is as easy as tig welding on a couple fittings for the oil ports. If you are going to use a positive displacement pump then don't forget a pressure relief valve and you may as well mount an oil filter and cooler.
I noticed in a few pictures that I found that the oil in those gear boxes looked like transmission fluid? Is it that thin? If so a battery powered pump would work and you would only need a couple places to put case fittings.
Cyruscosmo |