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Old 10-27-2014, 04:05 PM   #264 (permalink)
BamZipPow
T-100 Road Warrior
 
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 1,921

BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 24 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2011) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2019) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5

BZP T-100 (2020) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5

2012 Scion iQ - '12 Scion iQ Base
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Wowsers! My air shocks arrived this morning and I got free shipping!

Here's a quick install...I still have the air lines to run and find a place to mount the fill valve at. I cleaned up my silicone boots from my old shocks and just flopped them on top of the air shock to give some sort of protection to the air shock shaft. I will also be picking up some Nylock nuts fer the shock retaining bolts, too. I did have to lower the upper connecting point about 2.5" as the air shocks were shorter than the gas shocks.



After carefully studying my photos of the bearing and races, I found some pitted areas where water had rusted and pitted the surface of some of the tapered bearings and one of the races. So I picked up new bearings/races (A14 kit) and ordered new seals from O'reilly's Auto Parts since they were close. Seals should be here in the morning. I still have to pack the new bearings with new grease and git new cotter pins.

After I punched the old races out, I converted one of the races so I could use it to install the new races. I had to cut a gap into the old race so it would compress (similar to a piston ring) and I would be able to remove my "race install tool" easily. A few taps with a 2x4 scrap to set the new race in, I centered the "race install tool" on top, and tapped the new race all the way into the hub.


I can't wait to try this setup out...
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