Caps are one and done on the starter
Caps won't prop up a failing battery because the battery will drain down the caps to a matching, low voltage, and a tired battery will only put extra load on the capacitors if the battery's voltage sags faster than the caps when under load (in parallel). Plus, capacitors won't recover any voltage when resting off of charge, unlike a battery. This means that you'll get one good crank out of a reasonably sized capacitor bank, maybe two, but if the engine fails to start you're out of luck. A solar trickle charger would be no help in that situation. Anybody carry a 12V hand crank generator?
For this reason, I think caps pair better with deep cycle batteries (which normally wouldn't have the cold cranking amps for reliable starting).
Ongoing balancing loads on the caps should be minimal between cycles.
One benefit of a bank of caps is fast boosting via jumper cables. Depleted caps will draw tremendous current, but not for long enough to damage the cables unless you've got a bad connection. Likewise, connecting your caps to a dead car means instant starting for them!
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2012 Mitsubishi i-MiEV, 112 MPGe
2000 Honda Odyssey
1987 F250 Diesel, 6.9L IDI, goes on anything greasy
1983 Grumman Kurbwatt, 170 kW "Gone Postal" twin
1983 Mazda RX-7 electric, 48 kW car show cruiser
1971 VW Karmann Ghia electric, 300 kW tire-smoker
1965 VW Karmann Ghia cabriolet, 1600cc
Have driven over 100,000 all-electric miles!
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