I get my epoxy stuff from polymerproducts on ebay... OK so far. I've got a streamliner scooter project I've started (not worked on it a while though) and have done simple flats and curves with CF fabric I got a while back; also bargain priced.... some damaged fabric is why I got it for cheap. Pretty easy to work with actually. No more difficult than FG. Got my manual epoxy pump from:
Michael Engineering & Rook Metering
The pump ratio is adjustable, but I had them set it at 2:1 by volume (2 parts resin - 1 part hardener) as recommended by the epoxy maker. Non waxed paper cups, slim popsicle sticks for stirring and LOTS of disposable nitrile, vinyl or latex gloves are supplies that one will go through most along with newspaper or cardboard to catch drips. Acetone for cleaning tools and drips.
For a half cone section on the top rear of the tail fairing, I made a curved mold using HDPE sheet plastic. Worked great because the epoxy will not stick to it. So no messy release agent was needed except that I polished the mold with PLEXUS plastic spray polish. Flat sections were done on an old glass storm door. Very clean and polished with the PLEXUS polish spray. They came off mirror smooth; they even picked up the tiny etched lettering and logo of the glass manufacturer. Still, when it comes to any painting, the mirror smooth surfaces will need to be deglossed with very fine sand paper so that paint will have something to grip to.
The one thing about using the HDPE was that temperature stability was very important during cure. I once moved the form out into the sunlight to try to help the cure along, and the sunlight heated CF transferred heat to the HDPE which expands faster than the CF when quickly heated. It started pulling itself away from the CF and caused dents and waviness. Whatever temperature it is when the layup is done, the temperature of the mold and layup need to stay there until it sets at least 24 hours. Think I'm going to build an insulated box with a thermostat, small fan and a hair blowdrier as the heat source for stable temperature controlled environment for the cure process.
There are different patterns of fabric weave that will allow the fabric to lay better for some uses. A satin weave will allow some shifting of fibers in the weave and so will conform much better to compound curves than a plain weave would. Search the web for info on using composites. Lots of stuff on youtube that can help.