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 02-12-2015, 01:51 PM #22 (permalink) stovie EcoModding Apprentice   Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ivins UT Posts: 212 the green machine :P - '97 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 90 day: 20.92 mpg (US) Thee s10 - '00 Chevy S10 90 day: 24.27 mpg (US) Freedom - '05 Kawasaki Ninja 250EX 90 day: 75.55 mpg (US) Thanks: 2 Thanked 22 Times in 20 Posts I understand that you need the 14.7-1 a/f ratio (or the stoichiometric ratio) to burn the fuel at atmospheric pressure to achieve a "2 C8H18 + 25 O2 → 16 CO2 + 18 H2O". However, once you get further away from that ratio the issue becomes weither or not the "reaction" will continue after exceeding that ratio is the distance of the fuel molecules. If there to far a part then some will "react", but others will not braking the reaction and stopping the burning of the fuel. Now in a internal combustion engine where it compresses the a/f mixture it's a bit less of an issue. However the issue after that is the increased heat produced as you lean it out, because if the engine is running pretty rich then your already running at the other end of the stoichiometric ratio. Basically what i'm trying to say is that the only real way to get the a/f ratio to the lowest you can, you have to start with no fuel and slowly add it tell the engine starts to run properly, and with my experience with doing that so far it is far less then the 14.7-1 a/f ratio that the car manufacturers say they are using. A car can handle the "instant explosion" caused by going so low because it's a very small explosion when you get it to the right amount. It's like lighting a small balloon of gas in a closed room, to big and it will blow the windows out. If it's just the right size though it will explode but just enough to raise the pressure in the room without blowing out the windows. In an engine if the "instant Explosion" is too high it just increases the RPM's.