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Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes
Nah, I highly doubt the control board is broken. My super duper $5 5v 7.5w supply is bulletproof.
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GREAT NEWS
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A normal hall signal is 0.5v up to 4.5v.
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Good. I should be able to use my little USB-powered power supply to generate that signal.
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SERIAL: I think I was messing around with different speeds to see how accurate it was. I may have sent it up with 115kbps. It's also possible I sent up code that was in DEBUG mode, which means only a PICKIT3 could run it. I'll send you a "release" version of the code that should be able to be programmed by your programmer. I'll also make sure it's set to 115kbps 8N1.
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115K it is. I'll try that on my laptop and my cable now. Perhaps it will work.
I found a cheap PICkit 3 on ebay yesterday, and it was already in Canada so no messing with customs. It should be here next week. One less thing to worry about.
If everything works out with the PICkit 3 I can mess around with the ME labs programmer afterward, as a backup plan. I break/wear out lots of stuff.
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For the encoder, I think it expects pulses for A and B that are 0 to 5v, so if you can create that, it should be OK.
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I kinda need to know if the 24V ground and the 5V ground on the controller are connected. If not, I think I need to isolate things with optocouplers. If they are tied together, I think the voltage divider will work.
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Throttle is being pulled up VERY GENTLY to +5v with a 100k resistor. Maybe there's a tiny bit of a load from the volt meter that causes there to be a tiny drop across the resistor?
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My meter is pretty crappy. It may not have much input impedance.
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I'll get the other controller ready to test this week. It's basically assembled, but largely untested.
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No huge hurry. I can wait. I've got stuff to work out, like the mount on the encoder, the encoder signal conversion, how I'm going to lock the rotor, mounting the second 5 HP motor ... I'd just like to get the controller talking so I have somewhere to start.
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The output of the hall effect forces things to go to 0.5v for zero throttle, and 4.5v for max throttle. So, no hall effect connected would pull up close to 5v. It sounds OK.
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That's promising.
Does the controller do anything to show it's up and running besides the serial? Right now I have voltages on the 5V and throttle input. That's the only outward signs of life.