Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - View Single Post - Fuel Cut/Engine Shutoff Switch (Failed Attempt)

millenniumtree · 07-26-2008, 12:43 AM

'89 Civic 1.5L M/T

Well, today I failed to install a fuel cut/engine shutoff switch.
I bought a 25A switch for the dash and wired it up between the main relay and the injectors/fuel pump.

It cuts off the injectors and fuel pump just fine (I thoroughly checked/researched the Chilton manual to be sure of this). I thought that the worst it could do is throw an injector code on the ECU and then the injectors would re-activate when the switch was flipped back. WRONG.

Removing power from the injectors causes the ECU to flip out and not let the engine back on when I drop the clutch. (and it _does_ throw the injector code and activate the check engine light) So I basically still have to turn the ignition off and back on again, which defeats the whole purpose of the switch.

I've found a different place to wire the switch in, that should cut off more than JUST the injectors and fuel pump. It's the main 10A fuse that is only powered during RUN and START. (fuse 14 - for future reference)

I'll give 'er another go tomorrow. Hopefully with less mosquitos attacking me.

07-26-2008, 12:43 AM	#1 (permalink)
millenniumtree EcoModding Lurker Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Stoughton, WI Posts: 55 Polymer - '89 Honda Civic Hatch Std 4 speed 90 day: 51.49 mpg (US) Woodstock - '69 MG Midget 1275 Nekobus - '06 Scion xB Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Fuel Cut/Engine Shutoff Switch (Failed Attempt!) '89 Civic 1.5L M/T Well, today I failed to install a fuel cut/engine shutoff switch. I bought a 25A switch for the dash and wired it up between the main relay and the injectors/fuel pump. It cuts off the injectors and fuel pump just fine (I thoroughly checked/researched the Chilton manual to be sure of this). I thought that the worst it could do is throw an injector code on the ECU and then the injectors would re-activate when the switch was flipped back. WRONG. Removing power from the injectors causes the ECU to flip out and not let the engine back on when I drop the clutch. (and it _does_ throw the injector code and activate the check engine light) So I basically still have to turn the ignition off and back on again, which defeats the whole purpose of the switch. I've found a different place to wire the switch in, that should cut off more than JUST the injectors and fuel pump. It's the main 10A fuse that is only powered during RUN and START. (fuse 14 - for future reference) I'll give 'er another go tomorrow. Hopefully with less mosquitos attacking me. __________________ Last edited by millenniumtree; 07-26-2008 at 07:19 PM..