[oil pan 4]

I could put a bunch of 200 watt heats all over it but the transmission still needs to be able to radiate and conduct heat away from the case when its 115'F in the summer.
I am thinking if I leave the transmission fluid hot enough for long enough it will convex and radiate heat at least up into the valve body. Not really sure how well the pan heater will work, that is why I am going to test it and still add a 55,000BTU/hr 30 plate heat exchanger to warm the transmission fluid with engine coolant, just in case.

The suburban is getting a new version of my 240 volt powered coolant heater. The 5500 watt (18,000BTU/hr) version is just waiting for me to make an improved lighter weight more stainless steel housing as opposed to 15 pounds of steel water pipe I was going to use. Sounds like a lot but the coolant has always heated the engine oil and will now have to also heat the transmission, fuel and the rear compartment maybe more.

Actually I did make a hot water heater element oil pan once, got it all finished then I realized I was trying to put a non-turbo oil pan on a turbo block (the rear main bearing cap is bigger on the turbo block) and it would not fit, not even close.
So that was a waste of time.
I could do this again.
Obviously I would not run the in sump oil heater any where near 1200 watts.