aerohead is too modest to explain that his T-100 has been tweaked to within an inch of it's freakin' life.
I mean, it's in supercar territory. Take a look at his albums or older threads like
these twelve pages.
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What I haven't seen (not necessarily directed at your article) is a list of priorities as far as aero is concerned. Which heavy hitters do you need to tackle first to make aero gains so that subsequent aero mods are actually beneficial. On a truck, which has the highest impact on aerodynamic drag? Is the airflow over the bed? Airflow under the truck? Yes, the answer is likely to be...
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It's a cumulative effect. The only thing I can see is start at the front (upstream) and work your way downstream. That full length boattail is a drag to haul around, but it's like the cherry on top.
Or start with the simple fabrications and work up to the more complex ones. A popular thing here is to make a flimsy test panel and when it gets blown off, come back with something stronger.
The canoe strip idea is a good one, but be aware that even cedar or redwood will add weight. And there is a
lot of shaving strips into tapers. If you do this you might make your 2" formers and attach them to a removable brace so you don't have to do finish cut inside the shell.
Personally I like Polymetal, it's a 3mm aluminum skinned recycled plastic core. I can't afford whole sheets of it but I have done some test joinery
That angle braked on the rolled edge should have been scored beforehand. It ruptured the outer aluminum skin. But that way you get to see how it's made. The strength of 5/8' plywood at 1/10th the weight. And here's a construction in redwood benderboard. It's a landscaping material 1/4" thin by 4" wide. You can soak it, bend it and dry it. It would cover a lot of surface fast. This was just a test to establish dimensions.