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Old 08-30-2015, 03:11 AM   #638 (permalink)
BamZipPow
T-100 Road Warrior
 
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: The Woodlands, TX
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BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 24 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2011) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2019) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5

BZP T-100 (2020) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5

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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
That came out really well. What was it done in, coroplast? How did you fasten the top and bottom edges?
Yes, the wheel pant was made from my last bit of black Coroplast that I had left over when I rebuilt the main belly pan.

The top is aligned and slipped over the upper pivot bolt. Same goes fer the bottom on the hub axle nut. I have 4 screws per side that hold the Coroplast on to the metal substructure that is held in place by the axle nut. I have a piece of wood along with the metal support bar on the tail that keeps it from coming apart. I used Tyvek tape to keep the top and bottom horizontal pieces in place and painted over it with black paint.

On the front nose, I have 2 screws to keep the Coroplast tucked into place. I just added a piece of scrap aluminum flashing over the seam and secured that with some Tyvek tape.
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freebeard (08-30-2015)