Quote:
Originally Posted by danibjor
Well, you don't have to make the end goal on day one. But it has to be modular enough to reach the goal without throwing away everything every time you upgrade it.
Motors can be upgraded. Batteries added to the pack without throwing away old stuff. BMS should be somewhat modular so it can be extended.
A 200kw controller would go a long way. And this one is really affordable - and the power stage can be upgraded.
I found a used Nissan Leaf motor (those are rated 80kw/110hp and 280nm) - for just over $2k. Somthing like that would be more than enough to get to work.
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I got a good deal on a couple of DC motors so I bought them used, along with the DC controllers, the forced air cooling for the motors, a programmer for the controllers, partial wiring harnesses, and supposedly some support from the vendor. So I bought into older DC technology.
It turns out that the failures that guys have been seeing on DC motors may have to do with heat build-up - the DC motors, even with fan cooling, can't get rid of heat well. After you drive them for an hour or more on the highway (which you can do with a Lithium pack), they kinda start to melt. Not the first time, maybe it cooks some varnish the first time. But a bit more each time, until there is a failure.
The battery pack is from Renault/Better Place - essentially a Leaf pack. 16S3P for 128V at 180A for an hour, or more like 240A for about 40 minutes
I'm converting a 92 Mazda MX-6 with 360,000 km on it. It has a limited lifetime (not the electric drivetrain - the car itself).
If I put too much power into the drivetrain, I'll break something
So I bought electric components that were sized for a fun drive, but put them into a car that is well-worn.
Most of it - motors, controller, batteries, contactors, liquid cooling ... can all be put into the next vehicle. I'm out the parts and effort on the battery box, a transmission adapter, and a lot of labour but not a lot of cash .. unless I overheat the DC motor somehow
