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Originally Posted by cts_casemod
...with 0.006Ohm, if the capacitor is at 11V after a start I = U/R
I = (14.4-11)/0.006
I = 566A
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Is that the single capacitor impedance, or the total impedance of 6 capacitors added in series?
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Standard alternators (excluding special vehicles and marine applications) are voltage regulated, not current. They rely on the high impedance of lead acid batteries for protection. Current is reduced if the regulator temperature is too high, but provide no protection against short term overload conditions.
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I believe you, but I'm going to verify this sometime when I am messing around with caps and starting again. The alternator in my TSX varies output modes depending on electrical demands including the state of battery charge.
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Curious if anyone tried audio caps for that purpose (the ones uses with subwoofer's)?
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Audio caps tend to be much lower in capacity and much higher in price.
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Solar panels often have a regulator circuit except the very smallest ones, for which the BMS can actively shunt the excess energy and balance the cells at the same time, so this isn't particularly troublesome.
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The cheapie panels I see on Amazon for $20 don't have any regulation, but balance circuits are fairly cheap for the common supercap sizes on the market and can easily handle a few watts of extra juice.
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That depends how much the subfreezing is. My battery gets warm after 5seconds at 3C to pre heat the glow plugs and 2-3 seconds at 8C to crank the engine. Further charge will warm it up a bit more. This may cover the typical usage. If not ,there are ways around it. For minus 20C or below it might be troublesome, even for lead acids. Here the capacitor would be a welcome extra.
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I had wondered how much of an issue freezing was considering that the battery will quickly heat up with use. I'd still be hesitant to run it during the coldest days in the Portland area, which might be 15 F. I'd have no concern if with the battery in the passenger compartment.