View Single Post
Old 11-24-2015, 12:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
oil pan 4
Corporate imperialist
 
oil pan 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,268

Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
90 day: 11.95 mpg (US)

Snow flake - '11 Nissan Leaf SL
SUV
90 day: 141.63 mpg (US)
Thanks: 273
Thanked 3,571 Times in 2,835 Posts
240 volt powered speed controller

Since winter is here I am more interested in getting the coolant heater circulator setup going.

This part of the speed controller rig will power the pump with external 240 volt power when the coolant heater is powered up.

The high voltage side of the pump controller is starting to take shape.
With the 277 volt primaries running off 250 volt power the transformer produced 15 open current volts.
I tried one 277 volt transformer wired straight onto an old head light with no bridge rectifier. It produced 9 volts at 2.5 amps and didn't heat up as much as I thought it might.
Then I put 2 transformers in parallel, 12.5 volts at 2.5 amps.
Seems like it should work, just as I was thinking it would.

All they need to do is turn the pump and not burn up.
So I put a bridge rectifier on the transformer secondaries and some alligator clips on the bridge rectifier - and +.
Then I unplugged the pump and put the bridge rectifier alligator clips on the plug prongs and plugged it in. It was trying to draw 5 amps at 8.6 volts of pulsed DC, until the bridge rectifier heated up.
This is only the prototype to obtain proof of concept using junk I have laying around. And it works. This is far from finished.


This is the rig while it is powering the coolant pump. The bridge rectifier was really heating up. I have a box of heat sinks and a tube of paste, so this wont be a problem.



If it looks dangerous, that's because it is. Yes that's a clothes dryer cord.

I will use a 120 volt relay to isolate the pump circuit while the high voltage is going so I don't back feed what limited DC power the pump has going to the rest of the electrical system.
I want to be able to plug the coolant heater in, go back in side where its warm and just leave the coolant heater and coolant pump to do their thing.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IR_0146.jpg
Views:	204
Size:	42.3 KB
ID:	19143   Click image for larger version

Name:	pumpwr.JPG
Views:	218
Size:	105.0 KB
ID:	19144  
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.

Last edited by oil pan 4; 11-24-2015 at 01:09 AM..
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to oil pan 4 For This Useful Post:
Daox (11-24-2015)