View Single Post
Old 02-19-2016, 05:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
oil pan 4
Corporate imperialist
 
oil pan 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
Posts: 11,266

Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
SUV
90 day: 19.5 mpg (US)

camaro - '85 Chevy Camaro Z28

Riot - '03 Kia Rio POS
Team Hyundai
90 day: 30.21 mpg (US)

Bug - '01 VW Beetle GLSturbo
90 day: 26.43 mpg (US)

Sub2500 - '86 GMC Suburban C2500
90 day: 11.95 mpg (US)

Snow flake - '11 Nissan Leaf SL
SUV
90 day: 141.63 mpg (US)
Thanks: 273
Thanked 3,569 Times in 2,833 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
How do you run your heating element at partial power?
I was thinking I would use one of my varracs or get some kind of high voltage PWM, to regulate power going to the heater. I have not thought that far ahead.

Normally you really don't want to insulate the pan because during the summer some where like here where it can get over 100'F during the summer. But this 7.4L engine has the heavy duty towing package with a big oil cooler. So I might be able to do something like that.
Then I can reduce the oil heater wattage even further.

I recall 50 volts being ideal on this heating element for this application last time I did it. Of course I will test it to make sure I am not thinking of something else.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.

Last edited by oil pan 4; 02-19-2016 at 06:28 PM..
  Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to oil pan 4 For This Useful Post:
101Volts (04-23-2017), Daox (02-23-2016)