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NoD~ · 03-17-2016, 10:32 AM

I just swapped from my standard headlights (in my 1st gen Neon) to the SuperBrightLED headlight ( https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...aid/2215/4995/ ).

With my amp-clamp on at 13.8v, the regular bulbs drew 4.65 amps low beams and 4.8 amps high beams. The LEDs are 1.65a low, 1.85a high. Brightness went up a little to boot. Since I run engine-off a lot and run on the smallest battery I could find (Odyssey PC680-P Battery), it helps a lot.

Overall, I've converted enough over to save about 115 watts with just the headlights on (that's counting the dash lights, tail lights, marker lights, etc.) The gauge cluster LED changeover was notable, as I dropped 20 watts alone there with just the headlights on.

I'm currently working on a new tail section for my car that will use trailer LED lighting that should finally replace my factory tails. I tried a cheaper LED replacement for them at one point, but weren't bright enough. Trailer ones are extremely bright (very directional) and go from 30 watts each to 1.65 watts each when applying the brakes.

Also, I just bought these... http://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Flood-Lights-Bumper-Warranty/dp/B00J5AAX5S/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1458221324&sr= 1-3&keywords=nilight and they take about 14-16w, pending voltage (actually drew less power with more voltage...). Great for fog lights or, in my case, reverse lights! About 1/2 the power of my factory tails, but WAY WAY WAY brighter, which is always good for backing up at night.

My biggest advice: You get what you pay for in LEDs. That, and that they are getting better constantly, making it cheaper and brighter every year.

03-17-2016, 10:32 AM	#18 (permalink)
NoD~ Master EcoModder Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: USA Posts: 469 Frogger - '00 Honda Insight Gas Only (unHybrid) 90 day: 68.51 mpg (US) Thanks: 13 Thanked 247 Times in 133 Posts	I just swapped from my standard headlights (in my 1st gen Neon) to the SuperBrightLED headlight ( https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...aid/2215/4995/ ). With my amp-clamp on at 13.8v, the regular bulbs drew 4.65 amps low beams and 4.8 amps high beams. The LEDs are 1.65a low, 1.85a high. Brightness went up a little to boot. Since I run engine-off a lot and run on the smallest battery I could find (Odyssey PC680-P Battery), it helps a lot. Overall, I've converted enough over to save about 115 watts with just the headlights on (that's counting the dash lights, tail lights, marker lights, etc.) The gauge cluster LED changeover was notable, as I dropped 20 watts alone there with just the headlights on. I'm currently working on a new tail section for my car that will use trailer LED lighting that should finally replace my factory tails. I tried a cheaper LED replacement for them at one point, but weren't bright enough. Trailer ones are extremely bright (very directional) and go from 30 watts each to 1.65 watts each when applying the brakes. Also, I just bought these... http://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Flood-Lights-Bumper-Warranty/dp/B00J5AAX5S/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1458221324&sr= 1-3&keywords=nilight and they take about 14-16w, pending voltage (actually drew less power with more voltage...). Great for fog lights or, in my case, reverse lights! About 1/2 the power of my factory tails, but WAY WAY WAY brighter, which is always good for backing up at night. My biggest advice: You get what you pay for in LEDs. That, and that they are getting better constantly, making it cheaper and brighter every year.