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Old 03-18-2016, 05:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
cajunfj40
Lurking Eco-wall-o-texter
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: MPLS, MN area
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freebeard:

Quote:
Linky, please?
HTML Code:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151458
oil pan 4:

Quote:
To get full torque on a 3 phase motor rotor inductance and reactance have to be equal, this usually happens at 20% to 30% rotor to stator magnetic slip speed.
Does this mean I have to get the *stators* aligned in such a way that both *rotors* have equal inductance and reactance? Or is it something I have to do to the rotors themselves to make them equal? How equal, in either case, to minimize excess heating due to mismatch when running two 3-phase induction machines in parallel on a single shaft and single drive?

thingstodo:

I like the "sanity check" feature of the two different voltage ranges on the throttle. If I am "twinning" the throttle output to two separate drives, so long as both drives can handle those two voltage ranges, then there should be no issue. IE, use the throttle assembly that goes with the donor drive(s). If using a non-OEM drive, I've got to figure out whether I want to put in that sort of fail-safe, and how to handle it. Possibly with the GEVCU? Haven't read up on it at all yet.

Hmm. I wonder whether eldis' UMC drive
HTML Code:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/any-ac-motor-any-inverter-umc-152234.html
will end up being a contender here. The basic idea, as I understand it, is to rip the brain out of any given OEM EV inverter and hook up his board to drive the power stage instead. One stays limited by the capability of the OEM inverter power stage, but get to skip reverse-engineering the appropriate CANbus commands and either spoofing the parts you don't want to use from the donor or having to put them all in.

Thanks, all!

EDIT: links are not links yet, guess I have too low a post count, or didit worng. Seems legible, at least.

Last edited by cajunfj40; 03-18-2016 at 05:50 PM.. Reason: note about links not being links
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