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Old 03-25-2016, 10:15 PM   #2697 (permalink)
WindyDrew
AC Customs car builder
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
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What about this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by thingstodo View Post
This is the time to change your mind .. before coding!



I'll just rephrase that so I'm sure I understand.

So you are driving on the track, pushing your throttle to go faster. You come to .. say a corner .. and let off the throttle a bit. You press in the reverse button to start regen. The regen starts immediately based on your previous level of acceleration and you are now using regen for braking going into the corner. You press the throttle to get MORE regen. You get around the knee of the corner, back off on the throttle (which you are using as a brake right now) a bit to reduce your regen braking. Now you release the reverse button ... and you go from mild deceleration to mild acceleration. You push the throttle to accelerate out of the corner and down the stretch ...

Sounds pretty much right, except that I want the full range of the throttle for each direction (I believe that's on my end of the settings) so that I let of the throttle and it will start to coast going into the corner. I hold the reverse/regen button when I'm ready to slow down and push the throttle (now inverted by the button) to start the regen based on how much throttle I give it. As soon as I let off the button, I'd like forward (maybe require the throttle to be 0 first) How does that sound?

Did I get that right? I removed the paranoid delays and sequencing stuff to get to more of the driving experience thing that .. I think .. you are looking for.



So I guess you won't be able to wire the reverse button through the brake switch. That's your call. If you want to make the brake happen before moving into reverse, the brake switch will need to be wired into the controller.

To get the response that you want, changing the throttle code in the AC controller is, I think, the way to go. I'm not sure that is a good idea in the general case, for everyone's car. I'm sure it will work fine on your race car, once you get used to it. You are doing one foot driving with a button on your steering wheel (maybe a lever?) but it may be hard to explain to someone else - push the throttle to brake harder.

If you want some level of paranoia for bad wiring, it may be possible to wire the switch or lever to an analog input. A resistor in series and a resistor in parallel will confirm that the lever is still connected, not just shorted out or open circuit. Like the throttle reading 4.5V at full throttle instead of 5V, the lever could read 4.5V when released. And it could read 0.5V when you are pushing 'reverse' instead of 0V.

That way the controller knows that the lever is disconnected or shorted ... and you can decide if you want to fault the controller and coast to a stop or flash a light of some sort and keep racing without regen.
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