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For cylinder deactivation to really be worth it you need to be able to collapse the lifters and close both valves in the cylinder. With the valves opening and closing trying to move that air in and exhaust out it feels like the engine is misfiring badly.
What I did to double fuel milage on my carbureted suburban is:
Tune the engine for lean burn during cruise, lean at or near WOT is bad, you need to run rich during higher power situations.
Adjust the timing properly, does it have EGR?
Use EOC.
In the winter I took the fan off my engine to speed up warm up times and I am going to switch over to electric fans. In AZ, during the summer in the city an electric fan may not be a good option for you.
I also made a switchable warmed thermostatic and cold air intake, the thermostatic side is too small for WOT use.
With fuel injection you should just be able to use a traditional warm air intake.
You can change to a numerically lower rear end too.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
Last edited by oil pan 4; 07-13-2016 at 12:29 AM..
Reason: R
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