So Sunday night I found a few hours to devote to this thing and began to address those issues mentioned in the prior post. But I already had the engine off the stand and flywheel & clutch assembly on... everything but the oil pan.
So here she is after removing the clutch, flywheel, and water tube, I put engine back on the stand, to make the process easier.
I leave the oil pan off until last, this way I can use a piece of wood on the crank as a locking feature to aid in torquing crank bolt as well as flywheel / clutch bolts, then the last thing I install is the oil pan... It's not a problem as long as you make sure you bag your engine while not being worked on. Lucky for me I had not installed pan yet... so it made it easy to break torque on crank bolt.
I needed the crank bolt so that I could properly size hole & modify my motorcycle degree wheel to fit the engine. I simply step-notched the degree wheel's original bolt hole.
Once that was done I needed to make a pointer. I had a scrap metal data tag laying around. I step-notched one of the holes to fit timing stud, bent it, and marked it.
The result was a
pin-point accurate 
way to degree the cam and make all the necessary mental notes, measurements, etc...
So after doing my mental stuff, I proceeded to remove the custom grind cam and this is me going back together with the factory spec cam, at factory timing. The engine is now completely built, of the stand, flywheel /clutch and oil pan are all on.
Engine build is finished.
Now i just need to find time and mate the 3.52 tranny and put it all in the car.