[slowmover]

As to aero. The GM study referenced years ago by Aerohead, where covering the final 50% of the box was effective. Pressure equalization on both sides of tailgate. Seems like some sort of device to fasten waterproofed & painted plywood to the stake pockets would work.

Contributor Skyking has tried a belly pan on his CTD, his experience, however, leads me to agree with him that side skirts would be best. As with the front air dam, maybe conveyor belting. See Big Dave and his Diesel Ford.

None of these affect the ability to do work. Any FE mods which counter this (as with driving techniques which compromise safety) are contraindicated, IMO.

Cutting out unnecessary trips to keep the average mph high is what really works. No magic devices or other are a substitute. One MUST confront the teenager behind the wheel. Break old driving habits in favor of new ones. In short, this truck is overpowered and too fast to be run solo (I've hauled commercially with them). All it needs from the driver is steering and braking input. It will tell you what it needs. And to that end, if one does not wind up with an average mpg of 20, there is more to learn. Or investigate (and repair).

Be patient. Record all gallons and miles. Paper logs or Fuelly or another app. It's the annual average that matters. FE is just a "reading" about economical operation. So is tire and brake life. Transmission life. Etc. Expressed on a cents-per-mile basis (see Edmunds or AAA for a worksheet). CPM is how the big boys play the game.

Let me offer this example: I bought mine used. Low price due to being 2WD. And long bed. And manual. Far lower price than 4WD/auto. And, as the 4WDs will need to have the front end and steering rebuilt 2X or 3X in 300k miles, the price discrepancy is now thousands higher. So, too, if the owner opts for lift kit/aftermarket toy tires. Now, we're at lest $12-15k over what I paid. If that same 4WD truck reports the national average of 15-mpg, I've essentially gotten a free truck by comparison. Well before 300k depending on fuel prices.

Or, why would I want to pay TWICE as much for a truck capable of almost doing the same work (4WD has lower load capacity and is a worse tow vehicle), higher maintenance and repair costs, and is less reliable?

So, FE is just part of it.

Take it to a CAT Scale and -- with max fuel, driver and normal gear aboard -- get axle weights. Then get individual wheel position weights. Check the old online TOWING Guide and deduct cargo capacity based on your scale weights. (Limitation is actually axle/tire limits), but it's a good starting point. Ship weight on mine was 6,880-lbs. But I run around at 7,940-lbs (all wheels within 40-lbs of each other).

Have a long-term goal. How long will one keep it and how many miles? Extrapolate. Start spending now to get ahead. If one spends 10k past purchase price on all but a new engine and trans overhaul/clutch, then it's money in the bank. Most of these trucks have been severely abused at this point. A good one is worth gold. Depreciation on mine has amounted to $9k in nine years. So-called "book value". I'd laugh at that offer. Guys will fly cross-country to get one like mine (and it ain't perfect by any means).

CF and TDR are good sources on fixes. But, think systematic overhaul versus replacing a component. Make it new and keep it that way. Have a plan. And a budget to catch up, and then get ahead. Personally, I rather like the fact that with EVERY expense this truck has cost me a no-****e $100\yr when I also factor IRS miles.

You've bought at the end of the depreciation curve. Now, all depends on condition.

If it's just a toy, then forget all the above. And in that case you can keep the chrome step bars.
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