Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - View Single Post - Paul and Sabrina's Cheap 3 Phase Inverter (AC Controller) with Field Oriented Control

thingstodo · 12-06-2016, 10:22 AM

BTW - I have not powered up the new AC boards yet. It looks like it will not happen until the new year.

I've chosen an Allen-Bradley 1333 AC Controller, 5 HP, 230V, that has a bad current sensor for my first AC Controller brain transplant. It looks like I can run the old controller (it runs for about 10 seconds before it faults out on the current sensor) to verify the caps and such are working OK. I do have a couple of the same model that have working current sensors if it makes more sense to try one of them first.

Disconnecting the old controller looks like removing ribbon connectors for the IGBTs and the current sensors

Connecting the new control board looks like plugging in ribbon connectors and one new current sensor. The voltages appear to match. I guess we'll see.

The controller is set up to run from single-phase 240V or 3 phase 208V input. The control board doesn't really care what voltage the DC bus is, right? It assumes a battery bank but it doesn't really CARE. As long as the controller has the isolated 24V input, the output drives IGBTs, and the hall effect current sensors accept 5V, Gnd and the signal comes back proportional to the current measured .... we're good?

12-06-2016, 10:22 AM	#2891 (permalink)
thingstodo Master EcoModder Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Saskatoon, canada Posts: 1,488 Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR Tess - '22 Tesla Y LR Thanks: 746 Thanked 565 Times in 447 Posts	New AC Boards BTW - I have not powered up the new AC boards yet. It looks like it will not happen until the new year. I've chosen an Allen-Bradley 1333 AC Controller, 5 HP, 230V, that has a bad current sensor for my first AC Controller brain transplant. It looks like I can run the old controller (it runs for about 10 seconds before it faults out on the current sensor) to verify the caps and such are working OK. I do have a couple of the same model that have working current sensors if it makes more sense to try one of them first. Disconnecting the old controller looks like removing ribbon connectors for the IGBTs and the current sensors Connecting the new control board looks like plugging in ribbon connectors and one new current sensor. The voltages appear to match. I guess we'll see. The controller is set up to run from single-phase 240V or 3 phase 208V input. The control board doesn't really care what voltage the DC bus is, right? It assumes a battery bank but it doesn't really CARE. As long as the controller has the isolated 24V input, the output drives IGBTs, and the hall effect current sensors accept 5V, Gnd and the signal comes back proportional to the current measured .... we're good?