Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubby79
I have the shunt on the negative side, as required. I have checked the shunt voltage at the meter itself. It's still the same as it is at the shunt. I get 7.7mv at the shunt, and my clamp meter shows 77 amps, which corresponds nicely. It's a 500a, 50mv shunt. 1mv = 10a. 7.7mv = 77a. Meter reads 94.
...
I put a bigger load on it. 1.0 ohm, on my 12-volt battery. Link 10 showed 11.8a. As did my clamp meter. Still showing accurate.
|
Does it seem that the connection to the pack is dropping some voltage when under significant load?
If low current looks close, but high current does not. Perhaps voltage drop from negative on shunt to pack?
But when you reverse the leads on the shunt, it shows error in the other direction, like an offset ... sounds like voltage drop from negative on the shunt to the pack negative.
Can you add a bigger cable between negative shunt and negative pack to see if it changes the reading? Or is something else easier .. like adding another shunt in series on the negative side (like maybe 1000A 50mv). That should give you an extra 48 mv offset and show much lower or higher current on the link 10
I'd only do the extra shunt test for a few seconds. No telling what sort of stress that puts on the internals of the Link-10?
Does anyone have an idea that is easier or poses less threat of damage?