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Old 01-20-2017, 11:57 PM   #43 (permalink)
hayden55
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 1,170

Sport Utility Prius - '10 Toyota Prius II
90 day: 52.98 mpg (US)

300k Sequoia 4WD - '01 Toyota Sequoia Limited 4wd
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)
Thanks: 352
Thanked 265 Times in 212 Posts
Actually looking into driving for Uber or Lyft in Memphis. Anybody drove for the two and know which is better to drive for? I am already an apprentice electrical contractor driving from Jonesboro, AR to Memphis (mid-town), TN every damn day in a company truck as a carpool so Memphis consumes most my time. It seems like when I turn 21 in March that it could be a great opportunity to make a lot more money after work then going to work for 12-16 dollars per hour at a local restaurant in Jonesboro after my full time job. Uber reports their average hourly driver wages is hovering at $24 dollars per hour. I maintain my own vehicles 100% and buy parts in bulk so it seems like running cost could be extremely low in the Prius. And i'm not too afraid to put miles on the Prius since I bought it as a do everything mile absorber since it has Toyota's bulletproof reliability.


Alignment from when I bought the car I finally found it!
LF
-0.1 camber, 0.12 toe
RF
-0.5 camber, 0.12 toe
LR
-1.0 camber, 0.31 toe
RR
-1.7 camber, 0.00 toe

Alright, camber is fine it doesn't really scrub the tire much differently but toe is when your wheel isn't pointed straight and you are essentially scrubbing the tire as you drive down the road. From what I saw their is something about the rear beam that needs to be shimmed to bring it back in and that the left rear being so out of line is acceptable... BUT not for an ecomodder! So in trying to cost cap I'll buy a lifetime alignment from firestone and get them to bring everything in to spec. I may even slip the tech a 20 if he can help me zero toe the car since nobody wants to ever set an alignment to a specific value but just try and argue that the car in "spec" which is vague an unacceptable...


With depreciation, gasoline, tires w/ mounting, brake rotor/pads, oil/ filter, inverter coolant, engine coolant, spark plugs, transaxle oil, air filter, our best case scenario for me averaged out to be ~7.1c per mile of maintenance cost, and if you averaged 25 dollars per hour, 17.5% of your income went towards vehicle expense. Also, a lot of these were figured on 100% diy maitenance, no surprise fixes, and conservative warranty mileage replacement figures with good parts. I could realistically go cheaper with longer intervals and cheaper items, so I feel like I probably hit the nail on the head.

For me: Working two days per week, 15.75 hours, driving an extra ~51,000 miles per year, making before expenses 25 dollars per hour, it looked like I could make about $20.50 per hour after expense.

Chart of cost:
Gasoline: 2.079/gal (48mpg... hoplefully)
Tires, shipping, and mounting: 580.62/65k
brake rotors: 102.36/ 90k
brake pads: 46.85/ 45k
oil/filter: 25.00/ 10k
Inverter coolant change: 13.76/ 150k
Engine coolant change: 27.51/ 100k
Spark plugs: 20.92/ 120k
Transaxle oil: 54.67/ 60k
air filter: 8.87/ 30k
depreciation: $622 per 10k... guesstimate

I may play with the intervals and setup too, and i guessed off 48mpg since I figure warm weather should pull me up a little bit.

And you could actually probably keep up with receipts and have a tax write off at the end by claiming your repairs and depreciation and basically pay for the vehicle.

Also vehicle was purchased with 93k miles. I'd probably stop driving with whoever once I could get enough side electrical work to do by myself. So 1-2 years, vehicle mileage addition @ 100k?
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"I feel like the bad decisions come into play when you trade too much of your time for money paying for things you can't really afford."

Last edited by hayden55; 01-21-2017 at 03:21 AM..
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