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slowmover · 02-09-2017, 01:06 AM

rdefayettes aluminum aeroshell a model for you. Simple, and practical.

Weight has more effect on gassers than on diesels. Cylinder pressure. Time for a cranking compression test. Cylinder leakage will hurt tremendously. We used to never worry over it so much with big blocks as displacement helped it to continue to do its job. On my last one I got it to 17-19/mpg at 55-60/mph (car) with one cylinder almost below spec.

But that car weighed 4,760-lbs all up. Your truck has a huge amount of weight to overcome just in rolling from a start.

That truck isn't needed to move a travel trailer, but with the welder (and I assume) quite a lot of gear and supplies, I can see the appeal.

However, if moved infrequently, that can be hired out to an RV transporter. And the rest better covered by a car or smaller pickup with a decent trailer.

AAA and Edmunds both have worksheets on total cost of ownership. Most of us pay highly for convenience. Without IRS deductible miles, it's overly expensive to buy what is essentially a full time work vehicle (generates its own income) and use it for personal transportation, especially commuting.

I really like the 488. Remember them well. A popular alternative to the Cummins of the era. More and better power (useful) in many cases.

So, start with records. All those receipts showing fuel purchases. Use a journal or Fuelly. One needs to know the annual cost per mile for fuel. Changes in fuel economy are percentage changes to the average annual mpg. MPG gains are more slippery than they appear.

Complete book service after engine condition analysis. Given the age new body and bed bushings. Steering needs to be like new, this is huge for 4WD pickups.
Tire pressure should be reasonable. Too high is a bad idea from
Standpoint of safety. Longevity isn't improved either.

The mantra is fewer miles via trip consolidation and planning. Accomplish the same things, but with far fewer cold starts. Then drive the remaining miles more efficiently.

Cut annual miles. Record a higher average mph (engine hours versus odometer miles). With some new habits at the wheel, note percentage gain for gallons consumed.

THEN will upgrades show any benefit. One must have separated the wheat from the chaff or expensive changes will show false benefits.

There's always a minimum as to usage. Minimum miles to have accomplished the same ends. Will proposed changes affect that low miles number enough to be of benefit, is the real question.

One must have records.

If one is still in the mind set that increasing tank range with no changes to driver skill and vehicle use, then it's an expensive road made more expensive. Not less.

The money is in use. Type and frequency. What is the minimum?

02-09-2017, 01:06 AM	#16 (permalink)
slowmover Banned Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 2,442 2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT Team Cummins 90 day: 19.36 mpg (US) Thanks: 1,422 Thanked 737 Times in 557 Posts	rdefayettes aluminum aeroshell a model for you. Simple, and practical. Weight has more effect on gassers than on diesels. Cylinder pressure. Time for a cranking compression test. Cylinder leakage will hurt tremendously. We used to never worry over it so much with big blocks as displacement helped it to continue to do its job. On my last one I got it to 17-19/mpg at 55-60/mph (car) with one cylinder almost below spec. But that car weighed 4,760-lbs all up. Your truck has a huge amount of weight to overcome just in rolling from a start. That truck isn't needed to move a travel trailer, but with the welder (and I assume) quite a lot of gear and supplies, I can see the appeal. However, if moved infrequently, that can be hired out to an RV transporter. And the rest better covered by a car or smaller pickup with a decent trailer. AAA and Edmunds both have worksheets on total cost of ownership. Most of us pay highly for convenience. Without IRS deductible miles, it's overly expensive to buy what is essentially a full time work vehicle (generates its own income) and use it for personal transportation, especially commuting. I really like the 488. Remember them well. A popular alternative to the Cummins of the era. More and better power (useful) in many cases. So, start with records. All those receipts showing fuel purchases. Use a journal or Fuelly. One needs to know the annual cost per mile for fuel. Changes in fuel economy are percentage changes to the average annual mpg. MPG gains are more slippery than they appear. Complete book service after engine condition analysis. Given the age new body and bed bushings. Steering needs to be like new, this is huge for 4WD pickups. Tire pressure should be reasonable. Too high is a bad idea from Standpoint of safety. Longevity isn't improved either. The mantra is fewer miles via trip consolidation and planning. Accomplish the same things, but with far fewer cold starts. Then drive the remaining miles more efficiently. Cut annual miles. Record a higher average mph (engine hours versus odometer miles). With some new habits at the wheel, note percentage gain for gallons consumed. THEN will upgrades show any benefit. One must have separated the wheat from the chaff or expensive changes will show false benefits. There's always a minimum as to usage. Minimum miles to have accomplished the same ends. Will proposed changes affect that low miles number enough to be of benefit, is the real question. One must have records. If one is still in the mind set that increasing tank range with no changes to driver skill and vehicle use, then it's an expensive road made more expensive. Not less. The money is in use. Type and frequency. What is the minimum?