Quote:
Originally Posted by ProDigit
Generally speaking, 10W30 oil is very similar to regular dino oil.
Any lower first number usually has friction modifiers, mostly synthetic oil found in popular semi synthetic oils sold in the store.
The number after the W, if it's higher than 30, it's usually poly type of chains added to the oil making it thicker, and handle higher heat better. Very few W40 and W50 oils are actual heavy oils without modifiers.
Synthetic oils sometimes give problems with wet clutches.
What I talked about here is just the viscosity and lubrication.
I'm not speaking of additives that serve other purposes, like protect against corrosion, or trapping CO2 gasses and stuff like that.
|
There's really no need to get super technical. Staying with the recommended oil grade (30, 40) is always safe, as is using a motorcycle-specific oil.
If you deviate from that, you need to be careful. Research what makes an oil safe and what makes it not suitable for use in a cycle engine. The 2 main issues are additives - "Friction Modifiers" (Moly) and ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus). The issue with Friction Modifiers is the possibility of clutch slippage. The issue with a lack of adequate ZDDP is damage to the cams, rockers, and high pressure contact surfaces. If you are not comfortable with the differences, stick with manufacturer's recommendation to the letter.
The reason to use a non-motorcycle-specific oil is mostly cost, but also availability. Diesel oils like Rotella and Delvac are significantly less expensive and easier to find.
I've been using Shell Rotella multigrade oils in many of my cycles for years, and have determined through significant research that it's a safe choice.
But if you don't want to trust what someone says on the Internet, I won't hold it against you...