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Old 03-19-2017, 12:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
oil pan 4
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
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Sub - '84 Chevy Diesel Suburban C10
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My friend's dad had a pretty scary encounter with losing one trailer brake.
Driving along one day on the interstate with the family camper behind a half ton SUV at some point something, likely a peice of tractor trailer tire severed the wire to only the drivers side trailer brakes. He was unaware this happened.
When he got in the off ramp lane he put on the brakes and it put him back in the left lane. Lucky there were no other vehicles around.
Hit the breaks again and it almost put him off in the median.
This guy is a cop so he has had plenty of driving training and is really cheap, and will run tires till they fail. So he has had plenty of trailer tires and vehicle tires fail, more than I ever will and I have had a lot. So he has a lot of experience when things go bad.

So to prevent this I was going to test what happens when I wire the brake coils in series. I'm thinking that shouldn't really be a problem since old style brake controllers used a really big resistor and only sent a few volts to the brake coils under most braking situations.
It should only cut braking force in half and you use under half braking power practically any time you hit the brakes.
This way if one brake quits because of an electrical break then there will just be no brakes on the trailer.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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