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Old 07-28-2017, 07:36 PM   #7176 (permalink)
badfishracing
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Detroit, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
Hi duncan! Yes I can make changes to the controller code for better launches.
I've since much improved how the PI loop works on the AC controller, and that's directly transferable to the DC controller. I'll make the changes and you can test it out.

bad fish racing: It could be the hardware overcurrent protection. Yes I would twist the pot fully clockwise. What current sensor are you using? How are you doing the current sensing? Is it on just one of the 4 IGBTs?
YES PAUL. The hardware overcurrent was turned all the way down. I only recently got near that limit. I turned it up half way to be on the safe side. That did the trick. Between 1000 and 1200 amps all the way down the track. I need to upgrade from the 1/0 motor leads. The cable was very warm and the one ******* splice I had was too hot to touch. It's the hall effect sensor from one of your later designs I believe? Put a few pieces of lexan between the sensor and the buss bar to measure current at the right range. Fake out the controller that it's only pushing 511 amps when it's actually 1275.

Ended up 1 inch out of 2nd place. And that's with going from 170V to 136V over the past couple years. Weeding out the weak cells.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to badfishracing For This Useful Post:
MPaulHolmes (07-29-2017), thingstodo (07-30-2017)