Welp, I tried bench testing my mini controller with the current sensor I bought, and...it didn't work.
I couldn't get the hall-effect current sensor to change it's output, even with a decent current passing through it...
And the mini controller didn't like the input from the sensor, either.
I pissed away a couple of hours on it. Pulled out a traditional hall-effect throttle and it worked. Just not the sensor I bought specifically for the job.
I went back to my older plan...manual control.
That's my clutch pedal. Zap-strapped to it - upside down! - is the cheap hall-effect pedal I've had for ages to put in to an EV, but didn't need...
Zap-straps?!
Yesm zap-straps. And upside down! So the sensor's pedal presses against the floor. It works really well, and no drilling or screwing around required!
Temporarily in the passenger footwell...
Three 12v batteries, and a cheap brushed e-bike controller.
Again, something I had intended for use elsewhere, once upon a time, but never applied to it. It works perfect for my needs...adjustable output (based on the "throttle" input on my clutch pedal), with a built-in 32-amp current limit. (of course, at 36v, the 1-ohm field coil would only take 36 amps anyway!)
No frying of relays or other such switches for me, and this puts the control fulling in my hands...well, foot, anyway.
I'll move the batteries in to the back at some point. Might even use smaller ones, since it will only sometimes be required to put out 30-odd amps.
Of course, I had to test it... 2nd gear was pretty pathetic for take-off and on hills before...now it takes off in 2nd at least as hard as my 3-cylinder does in 1st!
