View Single Post
Old 09-28-2017, 11:37 PM   #133 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Saskatoon, canada
Posts: 1,479

ChargE (not yet running) - '92 Mazda MX6 LX
90 day: 33.89 mpg (US)

Ford Prefect - '18 Ford F150 XLT XTR
Thanks: 746
Thanked 543 Times in 438 Posts
Coolant pump

I bought a Piersburg pump, a small AC powered pump from EVTV a while ago. I finally got around to connecting it up to some water and testing it out.

The ball park requirements for taking away 150W or so of heat from the DC Controller heat sink is 6 liters per minute, and it needs a few psi of pressure to push the water through the heat sink, into the heater core of the car cabin, and back to the radiator.

Video from Sep 2 2016

This pump came with with pins that fit the pins on the pump, but was missing the female connector housing. After I got the pumps (I actually bought 2) and before I got around to checking if all the parts were there, Jack at EVTV had a battery fire in the shop and burned up his collection of connectors. He was out of the Piersburg pumps, so he had not ordered any new connectors.

I matched up the pins, crimped them onto a regular flat-4 trailer connector, and ended up using that connector instead.

The pump needs 0V and 12V, and a PWM signal from 20% to 100%, which is speed .. not flow. I'm just tying it 12V which should run the pump at full speed. There is one other pin which is one-wire CANbus. I won't be using that one.
In THEORY there is no difference between Theory and Practice
  Reply With Quote