View Single Post
Old 11-11-2017, 01:18 AM   #5 (permalink)
Xist
Not Doug
 
Xist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Show Low, AZ
Posts: 12,230

Chorizo - '00 Honda Civic HX, baby! :D
90 day: 35.35 mpg (US)

Mid-Life Crisis Fighter - '99 Honda Accord LX
90 day: 34.2 mpg (US)

Gramps - '04 Toyota Camry LE
90 day: 35.39 mpg (US)

Don't hit me bro - '05 Toyota Camry LE
90 day: 30.49 mpg (US)
Thanks: 7,254
Thanked 2,229 Times in 1,719 Posts
I built a fence for my dad on both sides of the backyard about four years ago. I imagine that digging holes will be infinitely easier than in Arizona, that was definitely the most time-consuming part of the project. The fence boards have held up well, but I recently replaced one on the gate, and I am replacing the original 2x4s with pressure-treated ones, but simply spraying with a sealant should have protected them.

Dad told me not to, though.

I recently discovered that a piece of cut pressure-treated lumber that had been laying on the ground had significant insect damage. They ate a treated side, not the cut face.

This looks like a good guide to using pressure-treated lumber: Your Guide to Working With Pressure-Treated Lumber

I see endless opinions regarding metal posts versus wood, with each claiming their preferred material is vastly stronger than the other. Some say the posts for chain-link fences are more than adequate for a wooden fence.

We set all of the posts in concrete and they have held up, although we had a strange problem with one of the gate posts--it actually bent under the weight of a gate that is only three and a half feet wide! The concrete rotated a bit, too, so I pulled it out, and used a pressure-treated 6x6 with four or five bags of concrete. I do not feel there is an alternative to concrete, dirt or gravel will give and the hole will expand. Wood will decay with direct contact to moisture.
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Xist For This Useful Post:
redpoint5 (11-11-2017)