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75 amps peak (which it should be able to hit by typical driving speeds, say 2000rpm). Less at idle, usually. Minus all electrical loads on it while running - at least 10 amps. Turn the lights and the blower on and you're probably looking at more like 30+ amps.
And how much amperage goes in to the battery is all relative to the voltage difference between what the alternator is putting out and what the battery is sitting at. If your alternator is putting out 14.4v and your battery is sitting at 13.8 already, there's only 0.6v difference, and not a lot of current is going to flow in to the battery (even if the internal resistance is in the milliohms). If your battery is sitting at 10v and the alternator is trying to put out 14.4v, there's 4.4v of difference and a lot of current is going to flow.
You could build a circuit that would limit how much current goes in to the battery, should it turn out that the BMS doesn't do this. That's more annoyance and headache, mind you.
Oh, and considering the time of year...you don't want to charge LiFePO4 batteries below freezing...it will mess them up, and you will supposedly lose 20% of capacity. It will only happen once, mind you. That battery is meant as a replacement for wheel chairs or maybe electric bikes...it's probably not designed or going to handle the severe temperature changes in an engine compartment.
Don't worry about your chargers' output, unless it's more than the battery can handle. You could charge it at 1 amp and it will still charge up properly.
You'll have to decide if it's worth the effort to tackle these issues. Better to hear them now then to have a nasty surprise later.
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